For years now, saying that there’s another buzzy contemporary Japanese restaurant in Greenpoint has felt like a tired sentence. But Lingo’s story pre-dates the neighborhood’s Japanese trend. Helmed by chef Emily Yuen of Bessou, which was a gem of a restaurant in Noho before it closed during the pandemic, Lingo feels like a continuation of that story, anchored in Japanese techniques that is accessible yet polished.

The space is airy, bright, a comfortable all day spot and an ideal brunch setting. The star of the menu is the sando lineup. From a spicy chicken one to a miso black cod, it hits harder than it needs to for something so simple. Dinner leans more composed: a Hokkaido-style braised beef curry pie topped with a showstopping bone marrow, gyoza stuffed zucchini blossoms, and seared foie gras with braised daikon. Since getting added to the Michelin guide, it’s become less of a secret but still manages to feel like a neighborhood restaurant.