Dining at ØsterGRO is an experience. To get to the rooftop farm where the greenhouse dining room sits, you first have to find it. Into a gravel courtyard behind a former car auction house, you’ll find a tight yellow spiral staircase that definitely gives more “fire escape” than “restaurant entrance.” Up five stories, you’ll finally reach a lush rooftop farm with panoramic views of Østerbro.

On the other side of the garden beds is a glasshouse with a large dining table, a beautiful setting for a beautiful meal. While you wait, you can order a drink and go say hi to the chickens.

Dinner is a multi course prix fixe affair that is paced leisurely, inviting you to chat up with the strangers you share a table with. The menu, which changes with the seasons, draws from local ingredients (much of which is grown on site). The dishes are creative, modern, with global influences and Copenhagen finesse. Somehow, despite being so close to the elements, it feels like the coziest dinner.