Taipei’s Datong District has no shortage of tea shops. Within a few blocks there’s dozens of tea houses that preserve the tea traditions over generations on low tables with full tea sets. Wang Tea Lab, at first glance, looks quite different with its industrial minimalist vibe. But behind the starkly modern brand is family tea legacy with roots back to 1890. Today, it exists as a two level cafe in a restored heritage building with exposed cement floors and brick walls. The first floor is occupied by a sleek tea bar that extends the length of the space, with nitro teas on tap and futuristic machines that pull shots of tea. Upstairs, a lofty seating area with windows overlooking Chaoyang Tea Park across the street.

Despite the modern finishings, the tea itself is a true evolution of tradition. Their menu includes everything from classic gongfu tea service to custom blended tea mocktails to espresso-style tea extractions. The specialty is oolong, which comes in a range of roasts and fermentation on top of the various forms you can order it in. There’s something for any palate, any mood. Everything is executed with technical consistency. It is altogether a sophisticated take on how Taiwanese tea culture can evolve to a new generation while staying true to local roots.