If we can all be honest for a second, we can admit that Printemps is a rather inharmonious addition to the cramped, touristy, historic streets of the Financial District. And perhaps even more so, Maison Passerelle is an incongruous addition to the food scene down in Wall Street. Where food for the most part means tourists patroning local hot dog stands and slews of finance brows queuing up for Sweetgreen (or Dig, or Cava, you get it). You see, this whole endeavor: a fancy department store imported from Paris, a fancy restaurant from celebrated Portland chef Gregory Gourdet, feels a little out of place for the current state of the neighborhood. Not quite enough to be a destination after the initial spectacle fades, and far too much for the FiDi population to appreciate in their backyard (after all, most FiDi workers aim to spend as leave the neighborhood as early as they can each day). Sure, we can be cultured and acknowledge the historic architecture and heritage of this neighborhood. And appreciate the effort to bring wonderful rooms once hidden within the imposing walls of One Wall Street back to the public. But what is New York but to be cynical?

Maison Passerelle is the flagship restaurant anchoring the department store. Inside it is as beautiful as the shopping rooms. Rich fabrics, decorative mosaic tiles, dark woods and marble are tied together with tasteful decorative lighting that tries to steal the show. But the star of the show is of course the food. The menu is a “bridge” (Passerelle) between classic French culinary techniques and flavors of former French colonies, a diasporic dialogue that feels refreshing compared to more traditional French fare. The dishes are creative, and beautifully composed. The cocktails match the vibe. It’s interesting food in an interesting space, not to be taken for granted. A space that exists in the intersection of design, fashion and cuisine: enough to make you forget where you are, even if just for a couple hours.