Some say La Grande Épicerie is the “Eataly” of Paris, but perhaps Eataly is the Grande Épicerie of Italy. A visit to La Grande Épicerie, for those of us not privileged enough to call Paris home, feels like a pilgrimage. A ritual that you are compelled to do each time you set foot in the city. An obligation, to pay your respects to the masters of mustard, the champions of charcuterie, the patrons of pâté.
To the culinarily inclined, La Grande Épicerie is a cathedral. A landmark in Paris that competes with the Notre Dame or Louvre. To get lost in the aisles, making your way, section by section, filling a cart, a suitcase, with what one must convince themselves are pantry staples so needed, so worth the weight in the suitcase, is a top attraction, a quintessential activity. Whereas some flock to Galeries Lafayette (or, for fewer, the neighboring Le Bon Marché) for luxury handbags, we stock up on fancy condiments. I for one, will always choose a grocery store over a department store. And this might be my favorite part of the LVMH portfolio.
La Grande Épicerie is a grocer for the connoisseurs. Of wine, sure. But also of water, vinegar, salt and butter. And, of course, an extensive dairy section. This is perhaps the only place in the world that has the audacity to have an entire section for bottled water, and cram an entire “world food” section into one short “ethnic” aisle and a couple shelves dedicated to the delicacies of the United States (read: peanut butter and ranch dressing). And somehow, we forgive that. Because this is not really a place where you pick up groceries. It’s a place where you cosplay a frivolous dinner party or decadent picnic. Where you need 12 kinds of mayonnaise, and 5 kinds of caviar and more foie gras than vegetables. Sure, they have the things one would need from a grocery store, they have an organic produce selection and butcher shop and fishmonger section. But it’s really more fun to load up on the snacks and sweets and cheese and prepared foods.
The flow of the store feels as curated as a museum gallery. You move easily from sweet to savory to fresh to delis. There’s a bakery, a creamery, an expansive selection of coffees and teas. A luxury counter with caviar and truffles and foie gras. And of course, an extensive (claimed to be the city’s largest) wine cellar below, and a homeware shop above. And yes, like Eataly, there are little restaurants and eateries distributed throughout. They host workshops and tastings, ranging from casual to exclusive events. You could easily spend half a day here.
There are two locations in Paris. The Rive Gauche location is the original one, once housing its predecessor, a grocery counter selling fine groceries (read: chocolate, tea, coffee) attached to Le Bon Marché, that has over a century blossomed to into the behemoth it currently is, with over 30,000 products and a full fledged catering service in a large industrial kitchen. The Rive Droit location opened in the 16e arrondissement, taking over the former Franck & Fils department store in 2017. Two locations, two destinations, one formidable institution. For Parisians, La Grande Épicerie was a window to the world with its curated shelves sourced from places near and far. For us tourists, La Grande Épicerie is a one stop shop for French products.
the details
| Address | Rive Gauche: 38 Rue de Sèvres, Paris |
| Website | https://www.lagrandeepicerie.com/ |
| Reviews | https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187147-d208056-Reviews-La_Grande_Epicerie_de_Paris_Rive_Gauche-Paris_Ile_de_France.html |
| @lagrandeepicerie | |
| Hours | Sevres: 08:30-21:00 Monday – Saturday, 10:00-20:00 Sundays |
| Price | $$-$$$ – definitely a step up from a standard grocer, but they carry a range of products, with many that are budget friendly |
| Aesthetic | contemporary with a hint of early 20th century grandeur and the abundance and sensibilities of an open market |
good to know
Go here for: the best culinary souvenirs, a productive rainy day activity
Don’t miss: their prepared food counters, it makes for an easy lunch or a lazy dinner, and pop into the wine cellar to pick up something to go along with it
Amount of time to spend: give yourself at least an hour, you’d be surprised how easily the minutes pass by
When to come: weekday mornings or afternoons (basically office working hours) tend to be less hectic
Getting here:
- Sevres: just a couple minutes walk from Sevres – Babylone (lines 10, 12)
- Passy: right by the La Muette station (line 9)
Other things to note:
- Their private label products are quite good.
- Don’t sleep on their merch, it’ll attract the people you want.
Last visited: October 2024
Last updated: June 2025
