long walks in london

a spring forward week of parks and art

// march 2025 //

I went to London without much thought. Tickets were booked recklessly (complete with a questionable weeknight redeye). Hotels booked with little more than a glance at a map. I had never really been to London before this. Only in passing. It wasn’t a place that I would ever go out of my way to visit. After all, in my mind, London would always be there. Just a 5 to 6 hour flight away, no longer than the schlep across the country to LA. New York with an accent. Europe lite. It always seemed to me like a watered down city, one that had lots of history of course, but no more than a backdrop, a set to great television. A place in passing, a great modern city pumping out influence through culture and economics and policy, though a far cry from the colonial days.

To me, London was a city that existed like any other city: contemporary, diverse, without much differentiation or draw. A little too easy without a language barrier or a significant culture shock. The biggest adjustment being driving on the other side of the road. But that is not to say I don’t have respect or admiration for the city. Quite the opposite. London, to me, is a place to live, not to visit. Which is how I feel about some of my favorite places in the world. Accessible enough to settle in, and peel back the layers, exploring different neighborhoods and communities and understanding the complexities of a city of this size and scope.

And so naturally, I did nothing to prepare for this trip. Haphazardly packed up a carry on, grabbed a coat and hoped for the best. The only things on the agenda: bakeries, art galleries, parks, maybe a little window shopping. The things I know and love and relish on under-booked weekends in New York City, on repeat and amped up on the other side of the pond. Turns out it was a good way to get to know a place. On a mission to heal seasonal depression with London sun. Touching grass, staring at art, indulging in buns, admiring architecture. Popping in and out of shops. Crowded meals at long tables with familiar faces in a new context. Long walks to get to know this old town.

home base : hotel grand bellevue in paddington

a super quick commute from heathrow and just a short walk from the park

kengsington gardens to holland park

I landed in London early in the morning. Checked in at the hotel and then started on my first walk. A hot coffee and empanada eaten on a park bench overlooking the Italian Gardens in Kensington Gardens. And then a walk through the brisk morning air to Kensington Palace.

After tour of the palace, I dipped out over towards Notting Hill. Stopped by Kuro (the bakery and the cafe) to grab a pastry and matcha.

And then continued onto Holland Park. Which was an absolute delight as the morning clouds burned off into a brilliantly sunny afternoon. The joy was palpable in the gardens, filled with people sitting on the benches and at tables basking in the sunshine as if it weren’t midday on a Thursday. The thrill of a sunny day in March in a city like London is unmatched.

SOMERSET TO WESTMINSTER

In the mornings, as the Londoners commuted to work, and well before New York work days begin, I learned to relish starting my days with breakfast and art. I started my day at Somerset House, which was a tranquil courtyard in the early hours. Ducked into WatchHouse for breakfast, marveling at the high ceilings and windows overlooking the courtyard. Then I popped into The Courtauld Gallery to admire the art and the fabulous stairway and linger around the gift shop.

Then I popped into The Courtauld Gallery to admire the art and the fabulous stairway and linger around the gift shop. The Medieval and Renaissance works in the Neoclassical rooms and the collection of works by the who’s who of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist era felt particularly intimate in the space. It’s the perfectly sized gallery to start the day.

THE ARTIST’S GARDEN

After the gallery, took a detour around The Artist’s Garden overlooking the Thames before looping back toward Covent Garden.

Weaving around the theater district, straight through Covent Garden, onto a crowded St Martin’s Ln and the very cute Cecil Ct. Took the long way around the lantern adorned streets of Chinatown for the memories of my very first (and very brief) first trip to London over a decade ago. The city a buzz with weekenders settling in. Tourists with eyes of wonder wandering around.

Speed walked past Leicester Square over to the dramatic Trafalgar Square, fountains glittering in the sunlight. The National Gallery will need to be saved for a future trip.

And finally, into the fray. As in, shuffling along Whitehall and cutting crowds as we get closer and closer to Westminster. Pedestrian traffic aside, the architecture really is picturesque. Big Ben standing tall, a timeless icon presiding over the city.

Westminster Abbey. Another thing to save for a future trip. Just a pop into the gift shop for a classic London souvenir, and then a walk through the Dean’s Yard before hopping back onto the Tube.

saatchi to paddington

Another morning, another start with art. This time beginning in Belgravia. A pastry and coffee from a local bakery and then walking through the picturesque quiet residential streets over to King’s Rd. Perusing the Saturday morning market in the Duke of York Square before going into Saatchi Gallery for the FLOWERS exhibition.

After a couple hours with art, continued the walk through more beautiful residential blocks over to Knightsbridge. Said hello to Harrod’s. And soon realized that there was no quick way to get back up to Paddington by train.

So the walk continued, this time through a peaceful Hyde Park. It felt like Central Park on a weekend morning. Joggers and dog walkers and families with children running around. The paths were peaceful enough, and the daffodils in full bloom. The smell of spring luring us all out to play, tempting me to linger longer, taking my time to get across to the other side.

SEVEN DIALS TO REGENT PARK

Had an inclination to go shopping and ended up in Seven Dials. A lovely little neighborhood full of boutiques and blooming trees and food halls in good taste. The start of a shopping heavy walk.

Cut through Soho, about as chaotic as the New York version of Soho on a Saturday, and looped around Picadilly Circus over to St. James for more shopping.

Penhaligon’s, Floris, and of course popping into the institution that is Fortnum and Mason to pick up some tea. Then it was up through where Soho and Mayfair blend together, into the cute streets of Marylebone. Chiltern Street is my favorite. And of course, swinging by the literary institution that is Daunt Books. Resisted the temptation to buy an obligatory tote.

And finally, up through the ornate gates into Regent’s Park. It was early in the season, the blooms quite young. But the rich green lawns and tree adorned paths made for a pleasant finish to an afternoon walk.

OLD STREET TO MODERN ART

Halfway through, I moved over to the east side. Starting from Old Street, I grabbed a coffee and scone for takeaway and then made my way south. Through a very peaceful Bunhill Fields Burial Ground and down to the Barbican.

I came across the Barbican unexpectedly. Saw it on the map and made sure to plan my walk to stop by. And it ended up being one of my favorite places in London. Architecture and art and nature rolled into one concrete mass that is beautiful and peaceful even on a crowded sunny Sunday. Walked through the rich green Conservatory, and indulged in a pause on the lakeside terrace while admiring the Brutalist architecture. What a flex it must be to call this home. But for the rest of us, what a treat it is to be able to visit even if just on one stop on a long walk.

Then, continued down to St. Paul’s Cathedral. A 17th century living landmark, pristine architecture and peaceful grounds surrounding.

From there, a straight shot down and across the Millennium Bridge with breathtaking views of the city. It was hard not to turn around every 5 steps to marvel at the perfect view of St. Paul’s.

And then the final destination, the Tate. Which I ended up liking way more than expected. Well, I expected I would like it, but I had a little too much fun wandering through the playful and political contemporary galleries, wide-eyed wonder at the Modern Greats. The Rothko room took my breath away.

And of course, the modern architecture. Polished concrete, dramatic use of windows letting the sunlight in and offering panoramic views of the city beyond.

SHOREDITCH TO SPITALFIELDS

One more day, one more walk. Staying on the east side this time. Took a round about stroll around the east side of Shoreditch on a quiet Monday morning. After a coffee break and a photo walk around the mural-filled alleys, the shops were beginning to open.

Zigzagged my way through the streets in and out of the shops vaguely in the direction of Brick Lane. Which looked exactly the part. The grunge, the thrift stores. The famous beigel shop. I turned around Dray Walk through the Truman Markets, which was bustling with activity from pop ups to art shops to cafes and breweries.

From there, I continued on over to the final stop at Spitalfields Markets, which was remarkably crowded on a weekday lunch hour, and the perfect place for a lunch stop as the grey morning turned into a brilliantly sunny afternoon.

And in between the long walks, many meals with friends. Many bakery stops. A field trip up to Kings Cross and the bustling Coal Drop’s Yard. One day, I’ll be back to walk along the canal.

And of course, some treats to bring home.