christmas in seoul

i love how much koreans love christmas

The last time I was in Seoul was for a short, spontaneous side quest from a spontaneous Taipei. It was fall 2019. Unbeknownst to me (or I suppose, anyone else in the world) it would be the last international trip I would make pre-pandemic.

In the 5 years since, the world changed, a lot. Seoul included. But I was surprised to find that I could still feel a sense of familiarity in the city that I barely knew. A rhythm that feels familiar, in a hub for global culture that is at the same time so connected and so insulated from the world.

And to come in the week leading up to Christmas was an unexpected gift. Usually I am not one to like when a place feels too seasonal, preferring more of an ambiguous, timelessness to experiencing a destination. But Seoul goes all in on Christmas and even without going to the specific Christmas festivals and markets, the seasonal cheer was inescapable, charming in the best way.

This time around, I went with intention. As someone who usually prefers a meandering travel itinerary, this was the first time I went with a lengthy to do list and pre-booked appointments. But I suppose in my mind, Seoul isn’t just a travel destination, it serves a specific purpose that goes well beyond the trip. To glow up and stock up. Between tax refunds and the extreme consumerism of holiday deals, spending money was a little too easy.

It’s a city trip in the best way. No pressure to do anything on any given day. Minimal coordination, everything just a train or car ride away. Basically just living my typical city life, but with the refreshing context of a new city full of fresh things for the senses. So I lived it like an extended, weeklong weekend. Filled with shopping and pampering and “errands” of sorts, cafe hopping and museum going and shared meals with friends of course.

As soon as I landed, I felt peace. Reprieve in the physical miles I put between me and the stresses of the reality I left back in New York. A sunny and brisk December day. A pristine city passing by as I made my way into the city. It was cleaner, more peaceful. A little ironic considering it was amid the protests following the very brief martial law declared. But on this day, things seemed orderly. People going about their daily lives. Not too crowded, even Myeongdong was much less chaotic than any block of Manhattan on a good day.

The first couple of days were filled with appointments. Scrambling across town to get lunch with a friend in Gangnam. A manicure at 5×5 nail studio in Seongsu. Nanoblading and a lash lift in Yeonnam. And of course obligatory laser treatments.

Trying to keep up with jet lag and US-based calls while succumbing to many convenience store meals in the hotel room.

Armed with a Naver map and a T-Money card, I gleefully danced around the city. Started off a morning at Soha Salt Pond for beautiful pastries and salt bread (a theme for the trip). No one does experiential aesthetic cafes like Seoul. And when it’s dressed up for the holidays? Even better. Took a meandering walk cutting through the artsy part of Bukchon Hanok and around the National Museum of Modern Art to Yeollin Songhyeon Square.

Spent an afternoon in Itaewon. Getting a culture fix (and admiring the sleek architecture) at the Leeum Museum and then shopping the hilly streets that snake down towards the river.

Some of the best moments were the ones where I couldn’t help but linger. Like a coffee stop that should have been quick, but ended up being a leisurely break in the courtyard of an art gallery. A savored moment of tranquility in the middle of the city.

If there is one thing Seoul overdelivers on it is the abundance of beautiful coffee shops. There are ones that are good for coffee, ones that are known for their desserts or pastries, and ones that claim fame for their ambience. Something for every occasion. And I quickly learned that there’s no point in consulting Tiktok or rummaging through Naver/Kakao maps when you can just stumble into any place. Many open early, many open late. Many have ample space.

And the best part is, the supply and demand are so well balanced that you can judge a place by the number of customers without needing to worry about not being able to find a seat.

Shops in Seoul really do decorate for the holidays. Minimum one tree per shop, often more. It infuses a little festive spirit into the shopping experience, which, I regret to report, works wonders on me. Especially when paired with little holiday gifts.

Halfway through the week, I switch hotels from Myeongdong to a quiet part of Gangnam. And then it becomes full shopping and eating mode.

Korea has perfected the art of experiential retail. Pop ups quite literally pop up in a matter of days from an empty lot to a full blown shop. Everything is themed. Comes in so many colors and varieties. Beautifully packaged. Everything is made not just for eyes but for cameras. It all photographs well. Surface level beauty at its best, and we all obediently buy it, embracing our shallow selves and being good consumers.

The more you buy, the more you are rewarded. Discounts, little gifts, gamified prizes, samples and limited editions and seasonal specials. They really rope you in and make you forget about your values for sustainability and conscious consumption. Oops.

The prime example is the temple of overconsumption that is the a single building housing Tamburins at the top level, Gentle Monster in the middle, and Nudake in the basement. With a glorious Jennie collaboration gallery on the ground level. It’s an assault on the senses. The shopping galleries are like contemporary art museums. The products are like art. The dessert is art. You lose sense of time and place here and the shopping bags begin to accumulate.

Went overboard on the shopping. Picked up several new fragrances, a new pair of Gentle Monsters, plenty of new clothes, and, even with bursting checked bags, managed to pick up an obscene amount of duty free K-beauty at the airport to carry onto my next flight.

My diet over this week definitely overindexed on the breads and sweets but the meals hit as well. I gotta say, Korean comfort food just hits even better in the winter. Stepping into the overheated restaurants from the sharp winds outside. Pockets full of handwarmers. Shedding the layers and digging into steaming hot stews and rice that feels like a hug.

And then there were all the things I didn’t have time to do. I made mental notes of galleries to hit next time. Detours to take. Cafes and restaurants to try.

On the last morning, I woke up to snow. Slippery streets under grey skies. Perhaps this was the best goodbye. It was time to warm up in Taipei.

christmas in seoul

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