summer days in stockholm

// SWEDEN

we never saw it in the dark

JULY 2024

There is something particularly wonderful about being in Scandinavia in the summer. The days are long, and the sun is out without being hot. Everyone seems to be on vacation mode, but there are not too many tourists (or at least not too many from outside of Europe). Most people probably don’t venture to this part of Europe on their first or second trip to the continent, and that in itself is a selling point. Compared to the crowded streets of Paris or Rome, Stockholm felt leisurely, local. Easy and relaxing, the perfect mid sized city, unencumbered by expectations and the global gaze.

Stockholm was a pit stop tacked onto a girl’s trip in Copenhagen. It was close enough, cheap enough, a perfectly sized city for a 3 day trip.

We landed early in the morning on a Friday in a very quiet Arlanda. It was a quick train ride into the city, and short walk to Hotel At Six, a sleek modern hotel in the center of the city.

The first order of business was to get some food. Schmaltz Bar & Delicatessen came highly recommended. It was surprisingly quiet for lunch hour in the little shop. The reuben lived up to the hype. And I couldn’t resist ordering dessert: whenever there’s pavlova on the menu it is a compulsive order.

Grabbed a quick coffee and cinnamon bun at Stora bageriet and continued shopping around Östermalm.

Swedish design is globally renowned. But while Scandinavian minimalism and IKEA practicality come to mind, Svenskt Tenn offers a different side of Swedish interior design. The hundred year old brand has colorful textiles and patterns that exemplify craft heritage, and the showroom was beautiful to peruse.

After a quick nap, we headed back out to Rosendal and Katarina-Sofia. The quiet streets were lined with well curated boutiques and shops and restaurants. In the warm soft evening light, the tables outside were filled with clinking glasses and friendly chatter. It felt like a premium Summer Friday.

some shops I loved in the neighborhood: tambur (a home goods boutique), parlans konfektyr (caramels and confectionaries – the passion fruit one is particularly delicious), grandpa (a boutique clothing shop with curated streetwear and casual everyday clothes for men and women), konst-ig konstbokhandel (a bookstore filled with art and architecture books), the english bookshop (a cozy shop for, well, english books)

We popped into as many shops as we could before they closed, and then sat down for a light dinner at Symbios.

It was still light when we got back to the hotel and crashed.

The next day, after an abundant breakfast buffet at the hotel, we headed over to the VASA museum, a museum built around a restored 17th century Viking ship rescued from the bottom of the sea, and tells a history of marine culture and life in the 1600s. Experiencing the sheer size and intricate detail of the ship up close is worth the visit.

Afterwards, we walked past Skansen towards Rosendals Tradgard. On a perfectly sunny day, there was a light breeze on the island, walking along the water felt healing. The gardens were in full bloom like a fairytale. Paths weaving through and the fresh floral and vegetal scents lingering in the air.

Originally, I had wanted to grab lunch at the garden cafe, but we were still pretty full from breakfast, so we just wandered around the garden, popping into the shop for a drink and some souvenirs. Sitting at a table in the garden under the dappled shade of trees, a tranquility that inspires presence in the moment.

On the walk back, we even came across some sheep lounging in the shade. What a life.

Back in Rosendal, a quick bite at Kalf & Hansen, a local cafe with organic “healthy” dishes, and then bopping around the shops.

More shops that I loved:

A World of Craft for gifts and homeware from African artisans

Brandstationen Store & Studio for uniquely curated home goods

Papercut AB for art books, fashion magazines and more

Pen Store for a pretty comprehensive stock of pens and stationery

Judits Second Hand for second hand clothing and accessories

HUMANA Second Hand as another good thrift stop

Stockholms Stadsmission as an everything thrift store that has everything from clothing to furniture to books

An obligatory walk through Gamla Stan, perhaps the most touristy part of the city. But even so, not too crowded to be able to wander freely. Stopped for some ice cream and then walked around the colorful historic buildings that almost looked like a movie set, or a Las Vegas hotel with the pristine façades.

Then it was up to Vasastan for an obligatory stop by the Acne Archive store.

Grabbed a golden hour coffee at Systrarna Andersson while people watching in the quiet courtyard before heading to dinner at Dalanisse, for Swedish classics. Like grilled meats with a whole lot of mashed potatoes piped around it.

stay: hotel at six

Located in the bustling Brunkebergstorg Square, Hotel At Six is integrated in a commercial hub. Housed within a former bank building, the hotel blends brutalist architecture with contemporary luxury. The sleek design exudes modern elegance, from the art filled lobby area to the rooms. And even as someone who loves to venture into the city for a cafe breakfast, this breakfast’s hotel is worth staying for. With ample fruits, excellent pastries and Swedish classics. Hard not to overeat in the mornings.

After breakfast at the hotel, we set out for a tour around the iconic subway stations, popping in and out of various stations to admire the artful designs.

Some favorites included: Tekniska Högskolan Station with the beautifully painted caves, Hötorget Station with its retro design, Solna Centrum Station with its natural landscape inspired paintings, Kungsträdgården Station with its eclectic colorful walls and sculptures, and of course the rainbow Stadion Station.