rain or shine, apparently
JULY 2024
Summer in Copenhagen, according to Tiktok, was all about biking around with a bouquet of flowers, taking morning dips and sauna sessions, eating pastries at pretty cafes and sitting in the sun. Of course, the Copenhagen that I met just had to be 60 degrees and raining.
In my imagination, Copenhagen has always been a design and culinary destination. A fancy place that a younger self wouldnât have been able to enjoy as much (perhaps it was better that I ended up in the Balkans on my college budget). But now, in 2024, after a good friend moved to Copenhagen, it took zero effort to get me to book the flight.Â
And the best part about visiting a friend is that the planning can be minimal. I rolled up with all vibes and no critical thinking and had the best time.Â
Copenhagen did deliver on two promises: great food and great shopping.
Our first meal in the city was a late dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar, in an the industrial Meatpacking District, Kødbyen. We grabbed drinks at 1656 Cocktail Bar before dinner. Despite the 9pm reservation, light still lingered in the sky when we entered the restaurant. In the industrial, aquatic space, we feasted on fresh fish and umami packed seaweed butter on bread.
The next morning, it was gloomy from the start. But nothing gets me out of bed like the promise of fresh pastries. Andersen & Maillard is a popular bakery and cafe with a few locations around the city. The Nørrebro location was airy and bright. Minimalist interiors and an open view of the kitchen with trays of pastries coming out.Â
Afterwards, it was a âdrive byâ of some landmarks that Iâm sure I would have appreciated more in the sun, and then shopping around Frederiksstaden. On a rainy Monday, the streets and shops were hardly crowded.Â
Hay was a haven of home design, a shelter from the rain and so much temptation to buy more than my suitcase allowed. Â
For lunch, we stopped by Atelier September in all its whipped butter fame. Under an awning with the rain pouring down, it did still make for a beautiful meal. And the butter really did hit.Â
A moment for a perfectly crazy meal.Â
We got dinner at Baka dâBusk. An eclectic vegetarian restaurant with a tasting menu that ended up spanning 4 hours with a smoky interlude (not sure what all happened in the kitchen). The food was fun, playful, an assortment of colors, flavors, textures and culminating with a berry pavlova.Â
The next day was almost a sunny day. Which was not one to be wasted. So after a quick breakfast at a Japanese cafe mysteriously named Dallas, we hopped on a train out to Louisiana Museum.
Louisiana Museum might be a top 5 museum for me. Not only do I always love a contemporary museum. But one with beautiful sculpture garden and a view of the sea. And a Kusama mirror room. And a lovely gift shop. And an indoor outdoor cafeteria. The perfect half day trip.
Then it was back into the city for some more shopping, this time in Frederiksberg C and Vesterbro Central. Popping in and out of boutiques from the wide boulevards to the side streets.Â
We popped into Propaganda for dinner just in time for a downpour that definitely rained on everyone who was dining al fresco. This casual cool Korean inspired restaurant had everything from sticky spicy chicken wings to a corn gnocchi that will live rent free in my mind for years.
And a brief ice cream stop at Ăsterberg Ice Cream for a sweet night cap. The elderflower sorbet was beautifully floral and refreshing.
Morning clouds gave way to some real sun. After a classic brunch at Union Kitchen, it was time to see the iconic parts of the city. The pastel colored town houses and canals of Nyhavn, and leisurely making our way over to Christiania.Â
Then it was time to work off that brunch with a climb. Up the stairs that spiral around the spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke, a Baroque church. Up in the narrowing steps and braving the wind, we were rewarded with a 360 panorama of the city below.
Of course, more shopping. The GANNI archive store, and back to the city center. An obligatory stop to Studio Arhoj to pick up some colorful souvenirs.Â
More shopping, and a light bite at the TorvehallerneKBH food hall.Â
And then a bike ride over to Nørrebro for even more shopping and playing in the sun.
Our final dinner was at Selma, which checked off the obligatory smørrebrods in the most elevated way. In multiple, artfully plated courses.
And of course, one more ice cream, this time at Isoteket, a local shop with creative flavor combinations that all hit. I mean, bergamot? Sign me up.
And on the final day, one more important stop. Juno the Bakery, the bakery. The one that filled my FYP and my dreams. I couldnât resist getting two pastries, one for the plane. The strawberry kouign amann fulfilled my dreams. And the cardamom bun was everything. We brought our pastries over to Prolog Cafe nearby to get some caffeine to pair with said pastries. A bite in, I regretted not getting more pastries.
The perfect sweet end to this first time in Copenhagen. Iâll be back soon.