the fourth in maine

seeking an americana summer

Since moving to the east coast, the 4th of July has become a time to deliberately get out of the city. Not necessarily on the day itself, but that weekend is meant to be spent somewhere more quaint, close to the water, somewhere that carries the charm of small town America that seems to only live in movies for city dwellers.

This year, sights were set on Maine. Portland was far enough to feel like a vacation, worth a longer stay. And the drive up offered opportunities to see a bit more of New England (joke was on us when the rental company gave us an EV with awful range, no good stops were taken, and many questionable ones were).

I wasn’t sure what to expect of Maine. It always seemed alt to me. Independent, on the beat of its own drum. But also I assumed, lacking diversity, historic and traditional, small town community vibes, quiet.

The hazy sea fog took its time to lift, but even in the grey, the beauty of the coast came through.

The more I visit cities in New England, the more it reminds me of cities in the Pacific Northwest. There’s a similar flavor of outdoorsy, laid back vibes. Unrushed rhythm. Tall trees and expansive coastline views. Spacious restaurants and breweries that lean casual. But this coast has a bit more history, a sprinkling of colonial accents everywhere you look. Little signs of generations past woven into small town charm.

Portland was refreshingly distinct. Surprisingly diverse, when it came to palate at least. A strong sense of identity packed into a tight community. Downtown streets filled with independent shops, music and chatter in the air. A great food scene. Picturesque houses that look like a movie set. And in summer, particularly delightful, even despite the unforgiving humidity. Farm stands and coastlines made for beautiful scenery. I couldn’t help but think, not a bad place to summer. Far enough away. With access to the rest of the beautiful state, to be saved for another time.

DAY ONE

Most of the first day was spent driving up. (read: we had to stop multiple times in suburban strip malls to charge). Even though we left early in the morning, we didn’t make it to the hotel until late afternoon. There was just enough time to check in, change, and walk around the downtown blocks before our dinner reservation at Fore Street.

Fore Street was a perfect 4th of July meal. Decidedly American but in a refined, contemporary way without being too “New American.” And the desserts, rhubarb buckle and strawberry shortcake, classics made elevated but with the familiar flavors of summer.

As the sun set late in the evening, we walked out to eastern promenade for fireworks. Locals and visitors filled the grass on lawn chairs and blankets. The street was lined with food trucks as a local marching band played. The sun set late, casting a rosy glow over the many islands dotting the water. The fireworks felt, to my city eyes, bigger out here. Lighting up the sky over the water. And then a warm walk back to the hotel.

DAY TWO

The first order of business on any vacation day is and always be to find a breakfast worth breakfasting. And Tandem Coffee and Bakery came highly recommended. The bright cafe was bustling in the morning, with friendly yellow umbrellas over communal tables in front of a converted gas station from the 60s. The line moved quickly and soon it seemed we and the rest of Portland that day were sitting on the patio, digging into breakfast sandwiches and pastries.

The next order of business was to walk off the breakfast. We headed to Two Lights State Park for a quick loop hike. The sea fog was thick on the horizon. But still a peaceful walk along the rocky coast, delicate wild flowers adding some color to the cool greens. Paintings throughout the trail, canvases posted up in a way that felt almost comical and yet endearing.

Probably an incredible view to admire once the fog lifts, if it ever does.

Then, an obligatory light house stop to see the iconic Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth. By then, the sun was beating down, and yet the fog persisted. The parking lot alone was full. And the waterfront path was filled with visitors. The lobster roll and ice cream vendors saw constant queues.

And then back into the city for a quick break from the sun, a pick me up from Onggi, a super cute cafe and superette, and the neighboring Root Wild Kombucha.

After recharging, we set out to find a farm stand and pick some blueberries. By then, the sun was on full blast and the humidity was settling in thick. Even the novelty of on the berries on the branch to city eyes wore off fast in the heat. We quickly filled up our pints of precious sun ripened berries and ducked back into the shade.

It was a bit early in the season, early enough that the staff had to take out the baskets from the back. Early enough that they had to point out the trees with more ripened berries.

Nothing feels more summery to me than a farm stand. The produce calls to me. We picked up some refreshing sugar snap peas to snack on. And some snacks and jams to bring home.

After a quick refresh at the hotel, we ventured back out to shop around the downtown area. Popping into the shops, getting some ice cream (hojicha and blueberry a delightful combination), and walking along the waterfront.

If there’s one thing Portland does well, it’s the independent shop. It may not be the most sophisticated or trendy aesthetic, but it feels personally curated, a perspective untainted by algorithms. From bookshops to cookware shops to candy shops, it’s small town commercial in the best way.

We stopped by Oxbow Blending and Bottling for a drink while we waited for our dinner reservation.

For dinner, we went to Cong Tu Bat, a colorful, casual Vietnamese restaurant that felt like a party inside. Every dish packed a punch, they didn’t skimp on the spice. An unexpectedly delightful meal on the trip.

And a final night cap of cocktails at Blyth & Burrows.

DAY THREE

Day three started early. We had to make it to Boston to meet a friend for lunch. The final stop in Portland was The Holy Donut, a local favorite with potato-based donuts. The blueberry donuts were the perfect treat for the drive down.

stay: the press hotel

The Press Hotel is a Marriott Autograph Collection property with a central location in downtown Portland, just a 10 minute walk from the waterfront and easy access to shopping and dining downtown. The building of the boutique hotel was once the headquarters to the Portland Press Herald, and the newspaper heritage is present throughout the hotel. There’s a restaurant (Union) and bar (Inkwell) at the main level. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, decorated with local art. It offers the convenience of a Marriott property and a bit of local history, making for a great home base on a short trip in the city.

Thank you for a beautiful summer holiday weekend, Portland. Until next time.

the fourth in maine

DAY ONE

DAY TWO

DAY THREE

stay: the press hotel

see also