July was a ramp up into a summer away. The long days blended together in the city. Rare weekends spent wandering the neighborhood between longer stints away. Summer felt ripe on a windy day on Governor’s Island. Speeding across the East River on the ferry. Watching the sun set over the city. Stealing away summer Fridays in pockets of the city I don’t usually get to see. Checked out on all fronts. The month was anchored by two trips. A drive up to Maine to kick off the month. A week in Europe to close. And there was still August to go.
Really tried to go for an Americana 4th of July this year. Back when Biden was still running, just days after that disastrous debate. Things were dismal and we really felt like this might be our last Independence Day.
A road trip up to Maine, made considerably worse by the EV rental. But the summer outside the city we craved. Complete with fireworks, blueberry picking, coastal walks and local ice cream.
10 years ago, I went to Europe for the very first time, as a study abroad student in Paris. 10 years later, the Olympics are in full swing and I thankfully stayed a safe distance away from the chaos, in serene Stockholm and a rather rainy Copenhagen.
With bigger travel plans looming ahead, I barely planned for this one. Stockholm was just a few stolen days before visiting a friend in Copenhagen, so it all felt like a bonus. Scandinavia in the summer is so special. The days are so long I hardly saw the cities in the dark.
Stockholm was in full bloom. Walking through Djurgården melted even my cold city heart. I mean, beautiful gardens and cafe and garden shop aside, there were sheep just chilling in the shade.
And when the sun finally came out over Copenhagen, it was beautiful. Biking through the streets, climbing up the church tower, getting a good look at this picturesque town.
// TEA FLAVORED JAPANESE BISCUITS
Nothing hits quite like airport omiage from Japan. And these the noir biscuits and matcha layered crisps were addicting. Not too sweet, small and individually packaged (probably safer for my own self control), decadent enough to feel like a special moment.
// MTA SUBWAY ART
Sometimes I feel like I spend more time underground and indoors in this city than ground level these days. But with that comes newfound appreciation for the art in the sweltering summer subway stations. Nothing like the beautifully designed Stockholm stations, but still captures my heart.
Culture came in the form of albums on repeat in the car, wandering into art galleries in chelsea, a summer field trip to the Lincoln Center for a dance showcase, airplane movies, a museum outside Copenhagen that I am newly obsessed with, and of course, the Olympics.
a surprisingly delightful airplane watch
between this and billie, and some normal gossip
I mean, Beyonce opened for us, so, yeah it’s one last chance to be proud to be American
I love everything about the Louisiana Museum. The contemporary art within. The architecture filled with windows. The lush green grounds overlooking the water. The bustling cafe with actually good food. The gift shop filled with things I desperately want. It was a good culture fix.
Stockholm and Copenhagen ended up being really good shopping destinations. From homeware to art books and magazines to clothes, I truly could have gone without any of the sights and only come to shop and eat. The shops and products felt refreshingly different from the collapsing consumerist aesthetics on the American internet. And thus I regained the joys of shopping in person. A tactile, sensory experience, with human connection that we so often avoid. So many thrift stores and archive stores, so little room in my suitcase.
Good bites happened in many places this month.
In New York, it was summer friday outings and weeknight dinners.
A – tahini and halva soft serve at Seed + Mill
B – a full spread at Zaab Zaab
C – duck fat fries and 2 desserts at Chez Ma Tante
D – iced hoji season at Kijitora
E – lunchtime tacos to scratch the itch at Los Tacos No. 1
F – emergency lunch and unexpectedly excellent sandwich at Ole and Steen
F – cooling down with herbal tea from Fong ON
STKHLM //
a perfect first meal of reuben sandwiches at Schmaltz // extra salty cinnamon buns at Stora // an excellent breakfast buffet spread at Hotel Six
CPH //
1: pre-dinner frozen drinks at 1656 Cocktail Bar
2: a decadent first dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar
3: first bakery stop at Andersen & Maillard
4: a rainy afternoon lunch at Atelier September
5: a really long, kind of smoky dinner at Baka d’Busk
6: egg sandos and ok matcha at Dallas Cafe
7: a really good museum cafe lunch at Louisiana Museum
8: still thinking about this corn gnocchi from Propaganda
9: slut for ice cream at Østerberg
10: basic brunch at Union Kitchen
11: refreshing summer bite at Grød
12: decadent smørrebrøds at Selma
13: even better ice cream at Isoteket
14: final bakery stop that did live up to my dreams at Juno
Summer Fridays are meant to be spent outside. Even if that means taking a very rocky ferry to a very windy Governor’s Island for extreme picnicking. Even if that means just taking a morning walk around the neighborhood to pick up a pastry for breakfast and some Japanese grocery store sushi for lunch. It’s the little city moments that count.
nbhd walks
when we boarded the first plane only to have to get off and wait for the next
ok but the cph lounge situation is actually really good
summer gifting
when we boarded the second plane and barely missed the microsoft outage
summer blooms
breakfast in bed
worth the walk up
cute ass souvenirs
high line looking real cute for the summer