everything i ate in cdmx
APRIL 2024
perhaps the best food destination
Mexico City has long been a top destination for me, but it wasnât necessarily as a culinary destination. But this trip has been one of the best food trips Iâve ever taken. Every bite hit. And even while the altitude took a toll on my physical health, my mental and visual appetite was never quenched. I would go back to any of these places in a heartbeat but I can’t wait for my next visit to hit all the ones I missed this yime around.
day one
LUNCH, Part 1
Upon landing in CDMX, we went straight to lunch, luggage in tow. The day started in a dark, cold dawn in NYC, so a warm, sunny Mexico City was a delicious change of pace. While waiting for a table to open up at Masala y Maiz, we ended up at Cafe Nin around the corner. A table outside, two espresso tonics (spiced with cardamom, a delightful surprise), a perfectly toasted sandwich and the first of several pavlovas, which we deemed on this trip the perfect dessert. Decadent without being too heavy, sweet but balanced with the tartness of fresh fruit. And if Mexico does one thing well it is fruit. A little amuse bouche to pre-game 2nd lunch.Â
LUNCH, Part 2
Then, we continued to leisurely lunch at Masala y Maiz. Indian and Mexican fusion that worked remarkably well. Each dish was an absolute delightful play of form and flavor borrowed from each cuisine. Suadero shines in samosa form. Uttapam gordita works brilliantly well. The servers sent us on our way with even more neighborhood recommendations.Â
After 2 lunches and an attempt at a nap, it was time to venture out to the grocery store and a bite of dinner. Kept it light at Tacos Orinocos. Fast, hit the spot, and an easy finish for the first day in.Â
The thing that I didnât expect coming to Mexico City was how good the bakeries would be. And not the traditional panaderias, but the European style viennoisseries. Some of the best Iâve had in the world, probably due to the freshness of the ingredients. I woke up with a mission in mind. To walk to pastries. Odette was a short walk away. Between two of us we ordered 6 pastries. Fresh raspberries and well laminated dough are a beautiful combination. Jam could never. Sitting outside on a quiet morning on a residential street, feeling the breeze, hearing the birds with a box of pastries and hot coffee. If every day could start like this, I think I would be a better person.Â
After some shopping around Roma Norte, it was time for a quick lunch break at Rosetta. Italian food usually would feel like a throwaway meal to me, but enough people recommended it and I got the feeling that CDMX does many cuisines very well with its restaurant culture. And though this was definitely not my favorite meal of the trip, it definitely didnât disappoint. Fresh ingredients shine in each dish in the prettiest, sun lit setting.Â
Ah yes, the obligatory meal. The town square for tourists. There was more English than Spanish heard at tables. In fact, we organically ran into a former coworker, while having a group dinner with coworkers. The tuna tostada was probably one of the best bites of the trip. Savory, crunchy, add in some some spicy acid, just, chefâs kiss excellent. Margaritas to go around. And then when the dessert platter came around, we had no shame in ordering three (the server almost convinced us to get it all).
day three
breakfast
Day three began with some coffee and yogurt at the Airbnb and then a long drive over to Parque QuetzalcĂłatl. And though it hardly counts as a meal, the fresh pineapple and watermelon with TajĂn in the secluded park was the perfect refreshing treat.Â
By the time we made it back to the city we were hungry. Grabbed an iced coffee from Super Cope while waiting for seats to open up at Comal Oculto. Honestly the sleeper hit here was the guava agua fresca. Which tasted like a crisp pearl guava in liquid form that tasted extra perfect in the dry heat of central Mexico. The duo toned flautas were as beautiful as they were delicious. And the gordita is something I would love to eat for lunch for the rest of my life.Â
Picked up another friend and headed to a chef-y dinner at the vibey Ticuchi. The space felt like a contemporary lounge more than a restaurant but the culinary finesse Each dish artfully plated. The roasted carrots shined like jewels atop creamy dark mole. The tamal de hongos was cute as a button. The pavlova (3rd in 3 days), was as pretty as can be.Â
day four
breakfast
Another sunny morning, and a walk around the neighborhood for a bite of breakfast at a nearby cafe, and then a wander over to Mercado MedellĂn to pick up some fruit (brought back no fewer than 3 types of mango) and stop by a local panaderia for snacks.
Rallied a bigger crew for a group brunch under a canopy of greenery in a very sunny patio. It was like kids who ditched class for the day, except we were adults who escaped work to Mexico for the weekend. Many bites were shared and glasses were clinked.
That night, we dressed up to go dance at TetetlĂĄn for the night one of the wedding party.Â
day five
breakfast
Mexico City really delivered on cafes. Unlike the uncomfortably packed coffee shops of New York City with overpriced almond lattes and never an open seat, the many many beautiful cafes on every corner in Roma Norte and Condesa seem to always have open tables inviting you to sit down for a moment in the sun.Â
Swapped the Airbnb for a hotel and then did a quick field trip to meet up with new friends and walk over to Cineteca Nacional de MĂ©xico and grab a quick brunch at La Chicha before heading back to get ready for the wedding.
DINNER
Dinner was a beautiful three course banquet in the courtyard of a 19th century manor. Too busy dancing for pictures.Â
day six
breakfast
To be honest by day 6 we were struggling. But it was my last morning in Mexico, my room had a beautiful view over El Ăngel de la Independencia and there were still a couple mangoes that couldn’t come back to New York with me.
Ran into some friends at check out and tagged along for one final al fresco group brunch at Niddo. Excellent pastries and a nourishing bowl of fruit and yogurt before parting ways.
FINAL SNACK
PanaderĂa Rosetta
Colima 179, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Couldn’t leave Mexico without going to Rosetta’s bakery. A couple pastries for the road to the airport. As much as I didn’t want to leave this city, I think my body was ready to return to a more stable home cooked diet.Â
see also
EVERYTHING I ATE IN OSAKA
EVERYTHING I ATE IN SEOUL