from the archives

memories from split

Spring 2016

There was a (brief) time in my life where I woke up to Mediterranean air, spent my days wandering ancient stone paths, sitting at open air cafe bar tables, looking out on the clear blue water. Croatia may have garnered a lot of tourist attention thanks to Game of Thrones, but shoulder season back in 2016 meant only the occasional cruise would stop by Split and the party island hoppers had yet to descend.

I remember first landing in Split, the first time visiting the Mediterranean, a familiar climate and landscape to home in southern California. The mountains and plants, moderate climate and blue skies were a welcome familiarity. Everything else was a delightful surprise: a small “city” growing out of an ancient palace, the pure blue Adriatic water, a stark difference from the Pacific Ocean I was used to, the juxtaposition of ancient Roman architecture with tiled Mediterranean rooftops, and the harsh minimalism of Yugoslavian buildings with heavy Soviet influence.

POSTCARD VIEWS //

this panorama, clear skies, blue waters

The days blended into each other. The weeks melted into the next. Hours spent sitting outside cafe-bars. Walking up and down the Riva. Muscle memory guiding through the palace. Hikes up Marjan. Visiting the many museums, each one more questionable than the next. No rush. Just palm trees and ancient architecture. And Mediterranean mountains in the backgrounds.

Split, for most visitors is a brief cruise stop. Or a day and night on your way down to Dubrovnik. It’s truly not a place that a foreigner with no ties to Croatia needs to spend more than a few days in, at most. The highlights can easily be hit within a weekend, and perhaps it is the perfect weekend trip.

the palace

The main event, the setting that is actually the main character in the story: Diocletian’s Palace. An ancient Roman city of cramped streets and Corinthian columns, limestone adorned with marble detail. Ancient town squares now filled with umbrella shaded cafe tables. A living monument that is one with the city, filled with shops and restaurants and daily life intermingling with ogling tourists. But what could one do but ogle at the surrealism of being able to walk through this palace that has stood for nearly two thousand years?

Diocletian’s Palace is basically the entirety of the “city” center (if one could call Split a city). Navigating the labyrinth is not really the point. Getting lost is a part of the process, and there’s always a beautiful view to stumble upon. Over weeks spent wandering the nooks of the palace, I found some favorite spots, but always seemed to be finding new perspectives, little details I hadn’t noticed before.

One of my favorite spots: the “vomitorium.” A space tucked away behind the main cathetral and overlooking the riva. Off the streets and always a peaceful reprieve.

Of the town squares, my favorite was always Narodni Trg, the National Square. It felt bigger, with a bit more energy, a gathering space and a place to linger under the clear Mediterranean skies.

And then there was the Fruit Square, more quaint, with the charming contrast of the green shutters on the stone facades. Many peaceful mornings were spent lingering here.

the DUNGEONS

Of course, no tour of the palace is complete without a tour of the dungeons. Perhaps less of a draw pre-Game of Thrones era, during the peak of GOT tourism in the mid 2010s, these dragon-less dungeons were always a big hit.

the TOWER

In any city, it is well worth climbing up to the tallest structure to get a good look at it. The Tower of Split is beautiful to look at from the outside, and an iconic part of the cityscape. But climbing up presents an unmatched panorama of the palace, and the Adriatic beyond.

Always fun to spot the landmarks I’d grown to know at ground level. Marjan Hill looks deceivingly small from here.

the RIVA

The other main part of Split, the waterfront promenade that is always filled with activity.

The palm tree lined path is lined with cafes and restaurants that, though one could argue are tourist traps, offer a stunning view of the sea and the boats and islands that dot the horizon. On a sunny day, during golden hour and sunset, it is magical.

Once a year in May, the St. Duje festival takes over the city, and the Riva is filled with vendors selling traditional crafts and toys and souvenirs.

On the western end of the Riva is Trg Republike, the Republic Square, with pastel façades that pop against the blue sky. Beyond that, quieter streets that take you up toward Marjan.

Past Republike, the Riva turns, wrapping around to a marina. Less crowded, yes, but also with the added bonus of having views of both the water and the city.

The hill

The top of the peninsula is occupied by a hill called Marjan. The forested hill makes for a beautiful escape from the crowds in the palace. Tall trees, beautiful views of the sea. A rocky coastline and space to spread out, explore.

As you get higher up the hiking paths, you get 360 views of the Dalmatian coast. Particularly breathtaking during golden hour.

At the summit, a flag, a cross, and the reward of unobstructed views all around.

culture and history

In Split, culture and history is quite literally, quite physically all around you. And for a shorter trip, perhaps it wouldn’t be essential to visit museums, but in case of a rainy day, the Ethnographic Museum, Archaeological Museum and City Museum are good ones to pop into.

Many of the smaller museums give small town vibes in a way that is…charming once you get to know Split, that will live fondly in my memories.

shops & food

Let’s just say Split is more of a culture destination than it is a shopping or culinary destination. The meals really do start all tasting the same by week three. But there are still some signature things not to be missed. Croatian wine is underrated (and underpriced), as is Croatian olive oil. Lavender scented things are abundant. Filigree trinkets are a local specialty. And ties were actually invented here.

Nadalina is a popular local chocolate shop with the sweetest owner.

There’s a little flea market that pops up pretty regularly and has local art. And a farmers market on the eastern end of the Riva that is a great place to pick up local food products.

A majority of my meals in Split were courtesy of the bakeries. The sandwich wraps were an easy, portable and affordable meal.

Croatian cuisine is a combination of Balkan classics with a Mediterranean and sometimes Italian slant. From beef stews to cevapi to pizzas, it’s generally heavy on the meat and starch, though there are often fish and seafood options on the menu.

Restaurants are all over the city center, tucked into the nooks and crannies of the palace. Lining the wider streets. Hidden away through narrow tunnels and quiet courtyards.

Bokeria is a popular restaurant in the city center that feels a bit more upscale and is a beautiful bi-level space.

Maslina is a solid local spot with a cozy courtyard and a pretty classic menu.

La Linea is a homey local spot that requires a pre-reservation for their daily special.

Stari plac crêpes & waffles is a homey little spot for a Croatian pancake breakfast.

Most days in Split are spent sitting at cafes. It doesn’t even matter which cafe, most of them are interchangeable. There’s nothing special about the coffee itself, it’s more about the act of sitting down, lighting a cigarette and chatting as the hours go by.

And two more places with fond memories: Luka for ice cream and desserts. And To Je To for drinks, and a starting spot for a night out.

Someday, I’ll be back. Until then, stay beautiful, Split.