// EASTERN TAIWAN 東部 // TAITUNG 台東 //
3 days in taitung 台東
a beautiful retreat to the most pure nature in taiwan
Taitung is Taiwan’s crown jewel. The most rural, remote part of the island, it boasts a breathtaking eastern coastline on one side, incredible mountains on the other, and bountiful farmland that produces some of the best rice in the world.
While one can easily, and quite spontaneously zip up and down the western side of Taiwan, the eastern side is for slow, intentional living. It’s the scenic route. There’s no high speed rail here, just a regular train chugging along the coast, passing by hours of rural scenery on the lengthy journey from Taipei, as if slowly easing you into the mindset of the laid back lifestyle of this part of Taiwan.
Taitung County is the third largest county in Taiwan, after Hualien and Nantou, but the smallest in population with about 216,000 residents and a population density of 61.5/km2 (compared to 9695/km2 in Taipei). Given its remote location and insulation with the mountains from the rest of Taiwan, it is the least developed, the last part of Taiwan to be overtaken by the Han colonizers and still today very much a bastion for aboriginal culture, with a new wave of effort for cultural preservation in the past couple of decades.
Taitung City itself is hardly a city. It’s more of a small town with all its charms. A bit sleepy, and very casual. Definitely operates on island time. Everyone seems to know each other, and visitors are welcomed with open arms. If Taiwanese people are generally friendly, Taitung people are friendlier. Shops blend into homes. Business hours are aspirational at best. Some tourist attractions are quaint, giving heavy DIY vibes. Mandarin comes with aboriginal accents, and Taiwanese is the default conversation language for many. Even for visitors, it feels homey. While no part of Taiwan is that disconnected (after all, you’re never too far from a 7-Eleven), Taitung manages to still feel like a nostalgic time capsule from a simpler time, almost timeless in a way. Large neon storefronts, faded advertisements, old school establishments with scrappy signs of modern technology integration, traditional crafts carefully preserved in contemporary spaces.
GETTING HERE
There’s realistically 3 options to get to Taitung, assuming you’re coming from one of the other major cities in Taiwan.
The most popular form of transportation is by train. There’s no high speed rail on this coast, but there are regular express trains. The Puyoma train is about a 3.5 hour ride from Taipei. Other trains can take 4-5 hours with more stops.
The fastest way over is by plane. 50 minutes from Taipei and you’ll be in a quaint airport right in Taitung.
The most flexible way is to drive. Many of the attractions are spread out, so having a car allows for more opportunities to make stops and side trips. Plus, it is a scenic drive if you take the coastal route. For a straight shot from Taipei, it is a 3-4 hour drive.
In terms of local transit, there are some tourist shuttles that hit main attractions. There are also local trains which hit most of the townships. Otherwise, your best bet would be to hire a taxi to take you exactly where you want to go, and opt for a day rate.
WHERE TO STAY
There’s no shortage of hotels and homestays and hostels around Taitung, both in the city, in the hills and all around the county. Whether you’re looking for convenience and accessibility, a nature retreat, a hot spring resort or a coastal bed and breakfast, there’s great options at affordable prices. For a weekend stay and first time visit, it’s best to stay in Taitung City so it’s easier to get around. For more of a slow living getaway, opt for something more rural, more boutique, or a beautiful Airbnb.
Budget: Kindness Hotel 康橋商旅, 東眠 Taitung sleep well, 好舒適民宿
Mid: Grand Hotel Lili, Papago International Resort, Coconut Beach B&B
Luxury: Naruwan Hotel 娜路彎大酒店, Hotel Royal Chihpin 知本老爺酒店
peaceful parks
public art
farmland
THINGS TO DO
Most people venture to this part of Taiwan for the nature. Taitung is like a playground for the great outdoors, of every flavor. Activities range from biking along the rice farms to exploring the coastal parks to paragliding over the East Rift Valley to hot springs in the mountains. There are endless ways of cobbling together an itinerary, depending on your lifestyle preferences, the weather, and general regional mobility (aka how much time and effort you’re willing to put into getting from one place to another). There’s no right way to do it, but here are some pieces to consider in an itinerary.
SEE: TRAIN RIDE VIEWS AND NOSTALGIC TRAIN CULTURE
The trip begins on the train. The nostalgia of train culture is strong here, reminiscent of the Japanese era. The long ride offers views of the ocean and the mountains as cities and towns turn into farms and villages. The destination of Taitung Train Station is airy and open, and distinctly celebrates the local aboriginal heritage as you’re welcomed into the city.
EXPLORE: ALL THE COASTAL STOPS
The eastern coast’s Provincial Highway 11 is lined with breathtaking natural and manmade sights all with a backdrop of the ocean on one side and mountains on the other. There are so many different options for stops along the way, from rocky beaches to surf spots, live fish ports to geological wonders, lush vegetation and precious flora to land art sculptures.
A few stops that are not to be missed:
San Xian Tai 三仙台
An iconic footbridge with 8 arches that lead to a small islet named for three gods who, according to legend, left footprints. Once a cape, erosion created a 22 hectare island that is secluded and filled with interesting volcanic geology, surrounded by coral reefs, trenches and caves great for diving and exploring ecological wonders.
Chenggong/Xingang Fishing Pier 成功/新港漁港
A little south of San Xian Tai is Chenggong Township, a small fishing town with an active fishing harbor and Marine Center. No frills fresh seafood spots and a peaceful coastal park.
East Coast National Scenic Area 東部海岸國家風景 and Amis Folk Center 阿美族民俗中心
Two things that Taitung celebrates beautifully: nature and aboriginal culture. There are countless scenic spots around the county, but the East Coast National Scenic Area is a particularly well maintained park with beautiful walking paths, shaded pavilions for resting and panoramic views of the coastline. And the Amis Folk Center as an open air museum with art and cultural activities from the Amis tribe.
Jinzun Lulian Island 金樽陸連島
Another scenic spot on the coastline with a pristine waters and rocky beach that juts out to a small geological peninsula.
Water Running Upward
A funny little attraction that is (spoiler alert) an optical illusion of water flowing up an irrigation channel up a hillside park.
Jialulan 加路蘭遊憩區
A seaside park filled with whimsical art made from driftwood and other natural materials from the sea. It makes a popular spot for photo ops, but is also just a lovely walk with the vista of the water and hazy mountains beyond.
Xiaoyeliu 小野柳
Just south of Jiajulan is Xiaoyeliu, yet another seaside park (free admission) with unique sandstone rock formations, including some that look like planks of tofu, mushrooms and honeycombs. Luscious canopies of trees shade pathways that lead from a quiet visitors center to the rocky waterfront that looks like geological sculpture park shaped by nature.
EAT: DONGHE BUNS 東河包子
And on your coastal exploration, make an obligatory stop for baos at this local establishment.
There are also plenty of cute coffee shops along the coast worth stopping by for a break.
MEANDER: Taitung Forest Park 臺東森林公園
You don’t need to venture beyond the city to get some nature and fresh air in. Taitung Forest Park has ample trees, a hibiscus garden, a few ponds, and biking trails that make for a low effort ride to the shore.
EAT AND LEARN: Yuan Sen Garden 原生應用植物園
This destination garden and botanical center is filled with medicinal plants, herbs from Chinese and Indigenous culture. In addition to the educational tour of the plants, there’s a shop filled with organic health foods and products, they also have an on-site restaurant serving “imperial” cuisines using local ingredients and the herbs grown on site.
VISIT A FARM: Saint mary’s health farm 聖母健康農莊
There are many farms in Taitung that allow for visitors and include tours and tastings. Saint Mary’s Health Farm is an organic farm run by the community with a restaurant, market and bakery.
CULTURE FIX: Bunun Leisure Farm 布農部落休閒農場
This cultural center preserves the heritage of the Bunun Tribe with art, craft, dance, sport, food and more. From archery lessons to DIY leather stamping and weaving to a tribal meal set, it makes for an educational and interactive experience for the whole family.
SEE AND DO: Luye Highlands 鹿野高台
The LuYe Highlands is a plateau that overlooks the fields of the Beinan River valley. In summer months, it plays host to a hot air balloon festival. The rest of the year, it’s a great place to wander a tea garden (for some excellent red oolong tea and the famous “fulu no. 13” tea) while overlooking the panorama below. For the more adventurous, there’s paragliding from the plateau. And for a more grounded activity, there’s grass sledding down the hillside by the visitor’s center.
BIKE ALONG RICE FIELDS IN CHISHANG 池上
At the northern end of Taitung county near its border with Hualien is a small town called ChiShang that is famous for its rice fields and the nostalgic bentos that feature said rice.
The beautiful tranquil rice paddies extend as far as the eyes can see until the mountains at the horizon. The popular activity to do here is bike. There are plenty of bike rental shops in the area, and the paths go through and around the fields for an easy, flat ride in a picturesque landscape. Along the way, there are some quaint landmarks. A watermill, a pavilion, a tree made famous by Takeshi Kaneshiro in an airline ad.
Years ago, there was a famous commercial shot here for Mr. Brown Coffee. Today, it has manifest as a dedicated branded pathway (“Mr. Brown Boulevard”), complete with the jolly mascot.
EAT: FAMED BENTOS
Nothing quite packs nostalgia for Taiwanese people like a bento. The classic, casual, portable meal, sometimes in wooden boxes, other times in coated paper boxes packed shut with a rubber band. Some kind of fried or braised meat (pork chop, chicken, fish, usually) atop a thin layer of perfectly cooked rice and garnished with some vegetable sides, and a braised egg. While all of these elements are important, what makes or breaks a bento is the rice. So it is unsurprising that ChiShang is known for its bentos. Don’t leave without grabbing one, whether you eat it on site or to go.
TO THE SOUTH
As you go south from Taitung City there are forests and mountains to be explored. Plenty of resorts and bed and breakfasts for a nature-filled getaway. Hot springs and spas for relaxation. Hiking and camping if that’s your vibe.
HIKE: ZHIben National Forest Recreation Area
知本國家森林遊樂區
The Zhiben National Forest is known for many things. Hot springs for one, with many resorts and public springs for more of a day pass. The mountains are lush with vegetation. A majestic waterfall. Orchids grow wild. Butterflies are abundant. And the occasional monkey will not hesitate to grab something out of your hand if you’re not careful.
explore: Taimali Daylily Mountain 太麻里金針山
At over 1400 meters in altitude, Daylily Mountain in TaiMaLi township boasts fields of golden daylilies in the late summer and early autumn season (not only a beautiful sight but also a cherished ingredient when harvested and dried – featured in many dishes you can find here), bamboo forests and breathtaking views if you manage to get through the clouds.
IN THE CITY
Taitung City is pretty sleepy on a good day. Even the night market is at most a quaint neighborhood affair. The Railway Art Park is worth walking through for art and nostalgia. The city streets are lined with small shops and restaurants, many family owned and many “old stores” (老店) that have been beloved for decades.
BE SURE TO EAT
Taitung isn’t necessarily a culinary destination, but it is Taiwan, which means there will always be food on the itinerary. With ample farmland, produce here is good. Really good. From daylilies to roselle flowers, jackfruit to sugar apples, sweet potato and of course, the crop of the utmost importance: rice. And given the lengthy coastline, of course fish and seafood are also abundant.
米苔目 (rice noodles): These short thick rice flour noodles are chewy, almost bouncy in texture. Whether in soup or “dry” topped with savory bonito and pork gravy, it is a beloved alternative to the classic noodles.
剉冰 (shaved ice): In the sunny slow island life here, shaved ice and icy desserts of every form are much appreciated. Usually from a stall or hole in wall. And more often than not with traditional, old-school toppings.
豆腐 豆花 (tofu): There are many places with excellent tofu in every form. Yes, of course some local favorite fried stinky tofu stands. And also a lot of vendors specializing in sweet tofu pudding for a refreshing dessert.
麻吉 (mochi): You can’t really go wrong with any rice-based food group, and mochi is no different. This makes for great gifting as a food souvenir.
THINGS TO BUY
Rice, of course. It’ll be some of the best, and straight from the source no less.
Tea: particularly red oolong tea, and fulu oolong.
Sweet Potato Chips: these candied sweet potato chips are great for snacking and also a popular gifting souvenir.
sample itinerary
DAY ONE
9:00 catch a morning train down to Taitung
13:00 drop off bags at the hotel and grab a bite of lunch at Rong Shu Xia for rice noodles
14:00 explore the city, walk through Railway Art Park and Liyushan Park, pop into Taitung Art Museum, or bike around Taitung Forest Park
18:00 take a car up into the mountains to catch the sunset and get dinner at one of the many restaurants overlooking the city
–
DAY TWO
08:00 wake up early and grab some Taiwanese breakfast at a local joint
09:00 head all the way up to SanXianTai and then make your way back down the coastline, stopping by JiaLuLan and XiaoYeLiu for an expedited tour. If you want a full day itinerary, additional stops include: Cheng Gong Fishing Harbor, Amis Cultural Center, Jinzun Lulian Island, and Water Running Upward.
13:00 head over to Bunun Leisure Farm for a cultural immersion, and grab some lunch there
15:00 venture up to LuYe plateau and pick your activity: seeing the views, hot air balloon ride, tea farm tour, grass sledding and more
19:00 finish the day at Yuan Sen Garden for some botanical education and dinner
–
DAY THREE
08:00 grab some breakfast to go and head down south
09:00 spend the morning with some outdoor action: explore Zhiben Forest Park for some birdwatching, waterfalls, and hot springs; or go to Daylily Mountain for floral fields, bamboo forests and a daylily meal.
14:00 stop by the city to pick up luggage, grab a bite if needed and any souvenirs
15:00 on the way back up north, stop by ChiShang for a couple hours biking around Brown Boulevard and the rice paddies.
18:00 grab some bentos for a portable dinner and continue on your way
visitor resources
Official Website: https://tour.taitung.gov.tw/en/
Government Site: https://eng.taiwan.net.tw/m1.aspx?sNo=0002123
Last updated: March 2025
